If your blade is wobbling, frequently binding, or has burn marks, it’s probably time to re-tension or hammer your blade before it gets worse. This is especially important if you are making big cuts!

We offer this service thru a 3rd party and do not do it in-house. The price you pay thru us is the same price you would pay if you go directly to them.

>>When you purchase this service from our website, you will get a PDF to print and include with your blade!<<

It will have instructions to:

– properly package your blade

– where to send it

– a spec sheet that must be included with your blade

Once your blade has been received it will be completed within 2-3 business days and immediately mailed back to you. Speedy turnaround to keep you milling!

ALWAYS KEEP YOUR TEETH AND SHANKS IN YOUR BLADE!

You do have the option for them to be replaced if you decide. If that is necessary, we will charge @ $14.10/shank and $2.50/tooth (they will be “blue-tip” teeth, not stellite).

**The price is an estimation of price and includes all shipping costs. If your blade needs less, we will refund you the difference. If it needs more, we will email you an invoice.**

You can expect your blade to come back correct and ready to be used again.
BUT you will burn your blade up again within 10 seconds of cutting if the original problem is not corrected.

Your blade should always be ambient temperature. Even after a long day of cutting it should be no warmer than any other part of your mill.

Check for:

TEETH
1. Teeth are the correct thickness for the saw blade
Note: 6 tooth main blade is 8 gauge and should have 5/16.
12 tooth main blade is 10 gauge and can run ¼, but 9/32 is recommended.
11.5” edger blades are 10g and should have ¼” teeth.
17.5” and 19.5”  bottom edger blades are 8 gauge and should have 5/16” teeth. 

2. Teeth are sufficiently wide and not ground down too far making the width too narrow.
   
   3. Teeth are sharpened to a 45-degree angle. Tooth corners are sharp, pointed, and square. 

SHANKS

1. Shanks are the correct thickness for the blade. (See note in section above.)
   Note: 10g shanks are no longer available, but 9g does work, but ALL the shanks need to be the same so there is no imbalance of weight by mixing different gauges on the same blade. 

2. Shanks are not too worn so that a saw chip (saw dust) is held in the shank gullet. Rounded corners on shanks (see right below where the tooth sets) allow chips to get between the shank and the log causing friction which causes heat which is always bad for your blade. 

3. Shanks fit into the blade tight enough to stay in place. Loose shanks are dangerous. There are instructions for peening your shanks in your manual. You can also purchase oversized shanks. 

MAIN ROLLERS

1. Main rollers are not worn beyond .010 of an inch allowing the main saw blade to change angle and not cutting true to the direction of travel.
   Main rollers that do not fit correctly may be a problem with worn track. 

ALIGNMENT

1. The saw blade is aligned correctly so that the saw blade is true to the direction of travel. See your manual for instructions to adjust this. 

MAIN SHAFT AND EDGER SHAFT BEARINGS

1. If bearings are worn, the shafts are not turning true which will cause unnecessary wear to your blade.